Metal and Other Surface Priming
Surface(s) Preparation Steps

Surface(s) Preparation Steps

NEW ALUMINUM

  1. Abraise surface
  2. Solvent wash with Epoxy Reducer #500
  3. Prime with White (#55) or Gray (#50)

AGED ALUMINUM

  1. Solvent wash with Epoxy Reducer #500
  2. Prime with White (#55) or Gray (#50)

COPPER

  1. Clean free of dirt, grit, grease & grime
  2. Acid Etch with muriatic acid remove - oxidatio
  3. Rinse with clean water - let dry
  4. Solvent wash with Epoxy Reducer #500
  5. Prime with White (#55) or Gray (#50)

BRASS & BRONZE

  1. Remove any loose tarnish
  2. Wash away dirt and grease with detergent
  3. Water rinse - allow to dry
  4. Light solvent wash with Epoxy Reducer #500
  5. Prime with White (#55) or Gray (#50)

CHROME

  1. Roughing up the surface with fine sandpaper or steelwool
  2. Wash with soap and water - rinse and allow to dry
  3. Light solvent wash with Epoxy Reducer #500
  4. Prime with White (#55) or Gray (#50)

IRON, STEEL, & FERROUS METAL (NEW)

  1. Wipe clean with Epory Reducer #500
  2. Remove all signs of rust and scale
  3. Again, wipe clean with Epoxy Reducer #500
  4. Prime with White (#55) or Gray (#50)

IRON, STEEL, & FERROUS METAL (PREVIOUSLY PAINTED)

  1. If old film in good (bonding) condition - wipe with mineral spirits to remove any gloss of oxidation.
  2. If old film in poor condition - remove it with paint remover, or Epoxy Reducer #500, or steel wool
  3. Remove any discovered rust
  4. Prime with White (#55) or Gray (#50)

STAINLESS STEEL

  1. Wash with soap and water to remove grease - let dry
  2. Lightly sand to etch the surface - blow clean
  3. Light solvent Wash with Epoxy Reducer #500
  4. Prime with White (#55) or Gray (#50)

MASONRY (BLOCK, CINDER, AND CONCRETE) - NEW

  1. Allow to dry for 30 days
  2. Etch with a 10% solution of muriatic acid
  3. Wash gently with clean water - let dry
  4. Sand lightly with sand paper or wire brush - blow clean
  5. Wipe off surface gently with Epoxy Reducer #500
  6. Prime with White (#55) or Gray (#50)

UNPAINTED STUCCO AND BRICK

  1. Must be completely dry before priming
  2. If the surface is soft, or powdery - apply masonry conditioner
  3. wipe surface off with Epoxy Reducer #500
  4. Prime with White (#55) or Gray (#50)

PAINTED STUCCO

  1. Clean free from loose paint
  2. Patch all holes completely
  3. Wipe surface off with Epoxy Reducer #500
  4. Prime with White (#55) or Gray (#50)

CERAMIC TILE AND GLAZED BRICK

  1. Wash thoroughly with detergent
  2. Use powered oumice and water to roughen surface
  3. allow to dry
  4. Wipe surface off with Epoxy Reducer #500
  5. Prime with White (#55) or Gray (#50)

UNPAINTED EXTERIOR WOOD SURFACES

  1. Make sure surface is clean and dry
  2. Fill and nail holes and cracks with filler
  3. Wipe surface off lightly with Epoxy Reducer #500
  4. Prime with White (#55) or Gray (#50) or apply Clear #40 to seal

WOOD PANELING

  1. Dull any shiny surface by sanding lightly
  2. Wipe surface off lightly with Epoxy Reducer #500
  3. Prime with White (#55) or Gray (#50) or apply Clear #40 to seal

WOODWORK - INTERIOR

  1. Sand (with grain) all finished lumber and flooring to smooth surface
  2. Sanding should correct all surface blemishes
  3. Wipe surface off lightly with Epoxy Reducer #500
  4. Prime with White (#55) or Gray (#50) or apply Clear #40 to seal

FIBERGLASS

  1. De-gloss or etch the surface by lightly sanding
  2. Blow off any dust created by sanding
  3. Wipe surface off lightly with Epoxy Reducer #500
  4. Prime with White (#55) or Gray (#50) or apply Clear #40 to seal

GLASS

  1. Wash thoroughly and allow to dry completely
  2. Wipe surface off lightly with Epoxy Reducer #500
  3. Prime with White (#55) or Gray (#50)

PLASTICS

  1. If it is flexible, clean first
  2. Test its accepptance of Klass Kote by allpying some to a very small area
  3. Observe results. If ok - prepare entire surface and proceed
  4. If results of test are unacceptable - do not paint it
  5. Glossy plastic surfaces should be roughed up slightly, and wiped clean before applying Klass Kote

TERRA COTTA

  1. Scrub with detergent and sand lightly with sandpaper
  2. Wipe surface off lightly with Epoxy Reducer #500
  3. Prime with White (#55) or Gray (#50) or apply Clear #40 to seal
What Surfaces Can I Apply Klass Kote On?

What Surfaces Can I Apply Klass Kote On?

Klass Kote Epoxy Paints and Urethane Paints can be applied on and generally adhere to almost any properly prepared surface. When painting metal surfaces or any other acceptable substance the key will be the work needed to prepare your surface properly. The following text gives some general guidelines for proper surface preparation. Your substrate to be coated may require more or less preparation, based on their condition.

Generally speaking, the more work done during the surface preparation phase, the better the outcome of the coating project.

Whenever using Klass Kote Quality Coatings as a primer for wood, metal, fiberglass, glass, masonry, or plastics be sure to refer to the label for each product and follow any safety precautions spelled out on the label.  It is also very helpful to completely read  our Product Data Sheets for any Klass Kote Quality Coating products you are using.

General Surface Preparation Guidelines For Paint Priming:

General Surface Preparation Guidelines For Paint Priming:

The following describes techniques for general surface preparation for paint priming.  More specific steps to undertake for any given surface are described on the left panel.

The quality of surface preparation and repair on any new, or repaint surface, significantly affects the amount of preparatory work that will be required before any repaints. Surface preparation and surface repair are the most important requirements for maximum durability and adhesion for any paint – but especially epoxy paints. Be sure to completely clean, and prepare your surface before you start to paint it. Once painted, results of surface preparation and repair are quickly concealed by the first coat of paint, and the effects are not usually evident until premature paint failure occurs.

Examine the surface to be painted. Check for peeling and faded paint, dirt, chalking, grease, cracking, knots, wax, any bare areas, mildew, rust, nail stains, holes, structural problems, etc. All surfaces, whether painted or unpainted, must be clean, free from shine, grit, was, grease, or any other thing that will impede adhesion.

LOOSE AND PEELING PAINT

Be sure to remove any loose and peeling paint by scraping either with a wire brush, mechanical scraper/sander, and/or power-wash the surface. Remember – the surface can never be too clean! You can feather-sand rough edges smooth until they blend in completely with bare surface.

DIRT, GREASE, OIL, WAX, CHALK AND UNDER-EAVE DEPOSITS and MILDEW

Remove these types of deposits by washing with a detergent solution such as Tri Sodium Phosphate (TSP) or commercial cleaner recommended for cleaning painted surfaces. Use a sponge or brush to clean. Remove any deposits from protected areas, such as under eaves and overhangs, and pay special attention to remove invisible deposits that can impede adhesion. After washing, thoroughly rinse with clean water and allow to dry thoroughly. Power-washing is a good and effective method of removing dirt, chalk, loose scale, etc. If a power-washer is used, follow the manufacturer's recommendations and warnings, and be sure to allow extra time for your surface to dry completely before coating.

If any spotty patches that look like dirt, but do not come off when scrubbed with detergent solution are present – they are possibly mildew. Mildew must be completely removed – or it will continue to grow under coated surfaces.

Clean and remove and mildew that is present, by applying a solution of one part household bleach and three parts water. You can also use a good commercial mildew remover. Wear rubber gloves, goggles, long-sleeved shirt, long pants, etc. to protect eyes and skin when using a mildew remover.

RUST

If any rust is present, remove all of it rust by sandblasting, or the use of a wire brushing, steel wool pad, or sander/sandpaper.

CRACKS, SPLITS AND OPEN JOINTS, GLOSSY SURFACES & WAX

Any cracks, or open joints, where any moisture may enter should be caulked with a high-quality, paintable caulk or bondo.

Always clean glossy or waxy surfaces with by using sand paper or other abrasive pad. Then wash with water and detergent solution and allow to thoroughly dry. Then wipe the surface clean with a rag lightly soaked with Epoxy Reducer #500.

Society for Protective Coatings (SSPC)

Society for Protective Coatings (SSPC)

If you are undertaking a large or complex surface coating project, for helpful information it may be useful to consult the:

The Society for Protective Coatings (SSPC)

They have numerous training seminars/modules on a host of subjects related to all types of coating projects.

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