INSTRUCTIONS FOR RE-GLAZING TUB, TILE, AND SINK SURFACES
First read the Klass Kote Product Data Sheets
The most important step in renovating your tub or sink is in the preparation process... please do not rush through this step. Just as much or preferably MORE time and energy should be spent in the preparation of the surface than the actual painting!
Priming of your tub, tile, or sink surface is optional based on the quality of the surface. If scores and imperfections exist – use either our Gray (#50) or White (#55) epoxy primer kit (sides A & B) on your surface first. This will help to get the surface smooth and ready for top-coating.
Always (if you're going directly to top coating or using a primer) clean and scrub the surface to be painted thoroughly with soap and water and an abrasive pad or scrub brush to remove any grease, grime, soap build-up, or loose scale. Make any necessary tub repairs before beginning to paint. Remove tub fixtures and mask off as necessary.
Whether priming or not, a light to medium sand paper should be used on the cleaned, scrubbed surface to “feather the surface”, and remove minor scores and imperfections. If heavier surface issues remain, priming of the surface will be necessary. After any sanding, be sure to re-clean the surface removing any and all sanding dust. A clean rag, lightly dampened with Epoxy Reducer #500 (or a high-grade lacquer thinner) should be used to wipe down the surface just prior to application of primer or top coat.
Carefully read all cans labels for specific instructions. Acceptable mixing containers are: glass, metal or #1, #2 (Polyethylene plastics) and #5 Polypropylene plastics. Using other grade plastic with result in epoxy mixture eating through the container.
For both primers and top-coats - Stir, shake, mix, and otherwise aggressively agitate the individual component cans (parts A & B) first. Then, open and thoroughly mix equal parts (by volume) of components A & B into a separate container. Mix only enough to apply several (light) coats to your surface area. Your mixture will remain useful (pot life) for several hours at 70 degrees F.
Set the mixture aside for a minimum of 30 minutes to allow the mixture to “induct”. More than 30 minutes is OK – up to 2 hours. If using Primer Catalyst White Fast #420 – no set aside or induction time is required.
Next, reduce the mixture as follows – based on the application method.
For brushing and rolling - Add only enough Epoxy Reducer #500 to allow the brush or roll strokes to “self level”. Start with 10 – 15% and experiment to determine the optimum amount for your environmental conditions. Use only natural bristle brushes and good quality 1/4" nap hair rollers. Avoid using cheap, foam-based products.
For spraying - add enough Epoxy Reducer #500 to allow the mixture to spray through your equipment without running. Typical amounts are up to 1-part-A, 1-part B, and 1 part reducer. On some occasions, it may be necessary to add additional reducer to obtain a steady “flow” from your spray equipment. Be sure to always strain the reduced mixture into your spray equipment.
Room and surface temperatures should be and remain as close to 70°F as possible. (Higher temperatures will result in significantly faster cure times; lower temperatures will result in significantly slower cure times)
Apply light, even, successive coats onto the surface. Wait ½ hour – 1 hour between coats for “flash-off”. Apply as many coats as necessary to get good, even, uniform coverage. As many as 2- 4 coats may be necessary.
When applying optional primer coats - usually 1 – 2 light-to-medium coats will be required to fill in and remove minor surface imperfections. Wait 4 – 8 hours (at 70°F) before sanding. Be sure to remove all dust from the sanded surface. If sanding the prime coat is NOT necessary (prime coat is smooth enough to proceed to top-coating without sanding) – top-coating can begin as soon as 2-4 hours after the last prime coat is applied.
If possible, the epoxy top coat color should be applied over the primed surface before 18 hours. (re-coat window) This allows the prime coat and the top coat to “fuse” together and dry as one single coating. If more than 18 hours elapse between priming and top-coating, lightly sanding the primer is required to increase adhesion of the top-coat onto the dried primed surface. If using Primer Catalyst White Fast #420 – the time window to re-coat time is not more than 12 hours.
After applying the last top-coat, wait 4 – 7 days (at 70 degrees F) before returning the surface to service. Ambient room temperature can be increased slightly to accelerate the curing process. Try 75° – 80°F which will bring the coating to “full sward-hard cure” in 4 days rather than [up to] 7 days at 70°F.
Be sure to remove any and all over-sprayed paint or unwanted paint drips as soon as possible - before it has a chance to cure. Use a cloth damply wet with Epoxy Reducer #500 or high-grade lacquer thinner.
Please contact us directly for answers to any specific questions about your particular application.